Having spent the past five days in Barcelona, the city has gradually opened up to us and, by the time we left this morning, we had a much better handle on the place.
First thing. The naysayers in Perth telling us that Barcelona people would spit on us because we were tourists. The public fell for Y2K and we’ve had a million scare campaigns since. Apart from not being able to find Osama Bin Laden – until they did – most of these proved bullshit as well.
The citizens of Barcelona were to a person kind, hospitable, honest…and beautiful. I have a great respect for personal grooming and beauty. This region has plenty of it.
But to the important matters: eating and drinking. See below for interesting places to do these.
Restaurante Pizzeria Eden, Carrer d Provenca 332 Eixample
Not far from La Pedrera.
Rustic family-style Italian with broad range of pastas and sauces to mix and match. That is, on one page of the menu is all the pasta available. On the facing page all the sauces available. Make a choice.
Warning: Red wine served cold. You may be able to order a bottle which has not been iced.
Ciutat Comtal, Cnr La Ramblas and Cort de Catalanes Eixample
9am to 1am every day was what we were told. When we walked past at 8.30am it was going strong.
Smart interior, sit at bar or tables inside or beneath umbrellas in the middle of the street.
Tapas style, frosty cold beer, anything else you want to drink. Bacon, eggs and avocado on the breakfast menu. Anchovies and other seafood fresh on ice in the main restaurant. The mini burgers are fabulous.
At night there’s usually a queue but if you’re waiting to dine beneath the umbrellas then leave your name and sit on the nearby park benches and watch the world go by until you are called.
Batea, Cort de Catalanes, adjoining El Avenida Palace Hotel.
Relatively new restaurant but awarded Michelin star in its first year. Embellishment on the tapas style and not ridiculously expensive (unless you keep buying wine by the glass as we did). Avoid the surf and turf as the lobster was in its shell and fiddly. It was also tasteless. It sat on a meat/black rice combination which was akin to a very poor risotto.
Everything else we ordered was superb. I thought the dessert menu was tapas style too so ordered two. Naturally I polished them off despite the waiter’s quizzical look.
La Cabrera, Carrer de Dispucion, a street off Las Ramblas, in L’Eixample
Steak and chips using expensive meats at first glance. However, a 500g Argentinian steak can be shared by two, resulting in a piece of meat served on cutting board and sliced to suit. (Difficulty arises if one prefers rare and other well done but waiters will accommodate this).
Believe me the 350g option is a lot (read too much) of meat for even a big eater. Plenty of free ‘gifts’ in form of condiments etc. Wine list was magnificent and not too ridiculous. We took the young waiter’s suggestion and my wife Annie declared it the best red she has drunk in a long, long time.
Anxoita Bodega, two doors down from Ciutat Comtal on La Ramblas
Cellar bar with food. Great atmosphere & service. Perfect for business or tourist gawp.
Good drinks list, interesting and probably more traditional tapas menu and superbly efficient staff working within a great system.
This place is a gem and my favourite of those we attended.
N3, down an alley-like street off La Ramblas (within walking distance of Ciutat Comtal).
Snug bar which looks a bit too local to want to have you but the host came out to open the door and we raised the age demographic considerably by entering.
Best Moscow Mule I have had, served in authentic brass/copper style-beaker.
Meson del Cafe 1909, on Libretaria, off Placa des Angels as you exit Jaume 1 metro stop.
Fabulous bar not renovated since 1934. Great service. Icy tap beer and terrific sandwiches and creme brûlée.
The host, Adrien, was so informative and friendly. The bar had sit down facilities for 18 people. There were 14 people in there at one point and he handled the food, drinks, coffees and cleaning all alone.
My experience of small Perth bars and cafes is they have staffs of six, all on good wages. I wonder why they don’t make more profit?
I WRIGHT 